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Hannah



Joined: 20 May 2011
Posts: 74
Location: Kansas City

PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, TDL has it right. It's buried in the brochure. Even the guy at Home Despot was surprised when I pointed it out. (Of course, that's not hard to do; many of those guys don't have a clue.) That place doesn't keep the Gold Series in stock at all, so I would have had to get it custom ordered anyhow, even with a half screen. I'm really excited--it should be here in 3-5 weeks. It seems like the best of both worlds. The convenience of a modern double-track storm with the practicality of an old-fashioned full screen.
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Hannah
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Mic-Hal



Joined: 14 Dec 2010
Posts: 37
Location: Weirton WV, Cape Cod MA

PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hannah wrote:
Yes, TDL has it right. It's buried in the brochure. Even the guy at Home Despot was surprised when I pointed it out. (Of course, that's not hard to do; many of those guys don't have a clue.) That place doesn't keep the Gold Series in stock at all, so I would have had to get it custom ordered anyhow, even with a half screen. I'm really excited--it should be here in 3-5 weeks. It seems like the best of both worlds. The convenience of a modern double-track storm with the practicality of an old-fashioned full screen.


Can I ask you what the cost of the gold series full screen you ordered was for what size window? I know what you mean about the info on screen being buried in the brochure also about "Cottage center rail" you have to be sure to give them the proper center rail measurement in order to get it where you need it instead of just "In the middle" My windows have taller tops than bottoms.
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Hannah



Joined: 20 May 2011
Posts: 74
Location: Kansas City

PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure, you can ask and I will tell you! I opted for the kind that screws onto the blind stops (which is the kind we had before), and the dimensions were 26 1/2" by 46". Fully optioned (with "low-E" coated glass and in your choice of 4 colors) this size is around $160. I wanted plain glass and plain white color, and was delighted to find that this brought the price down to $119.20 (all prices before tax).

I wasn't worried about "cottage center rail," though I did see the option. 7 out of my 10 windows, including the one I'm working on now, have symmetrical sashes. I will be taking advantage of this option for the front-room windows, though, which have taller lower sashes. I'm not sure how this option might change the cost.

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Hannah
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Mic-Hal



Joined: 14 Dec 2010
Posts: 37
Location: Weirton WV, Cape Cod MA

PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks that is helpful since I have seven kitchen windows that are very close to that size, and I plan to get the Gold series myself. Though I have a lot of stripping and repairing of the windows themselves as well.
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Hannah



Joined: 20 May 2011
Posts: 74
Location: Kansas City

PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 3:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've gotten a lot of work done these last couple of days! I replaced the top piece of exterior molding (completely rotten) and caulked it. Sill stock has apparently changed a bit since '46; there isn't enough overhang on the interior side to nail the stool to, so I'm gluing another block to extend the sill farther inside (that's what the clamps are doing in the picture below).



We had to chip out some stucco in order to wrestle the new sill into place. You can see the new stucco under the sill as a lighter color in the above pic. I left a small (1/4") gap between stucco and sill which I intend to run a bead of caulk along. I figured stuccoing all the way up to the sill might wick water up and against the sill. As you can see, I'm still working on filling the voids on the bottom ends of the side brickmold and blind stops.

rcnx: Thanks for the idea about the molding! That's what I ended up doing--I got two pieces of stock molding and combined them in such a way as to approximate the existing profile. My aunt graciously lent her table saw for the rip cuts. (After all, it's her side of the family I get the woodworking/home-improvement gene from!)

Mic-hal: No problem! Get yourself a good scraper, it'll make all the difference. I've started using a detail pull-scraper with a triangular carbide blade and ergonomic handle.



This is how it stands now. The above pic was taken moments before scrambling to get a tarp over the wet putty, caulk, and rags stuffed between sill and sash (to try to keep in A/C). Went from 95 degrees and sunny to pea-sized hail in under an hour! Gotta love Kansas weather!

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Hannah
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Mic-Hal



Joined: 14 Dec 2010
Posts: 37
Location: Weirton WV, Cape Cod MA

PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have several good scrapers and a good commercial steamer, it is getting to the windows etc that is a problem for me since I am disabled, and hubby just does not have the time, and also has health issues. But we will get there somehow!
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mattswabb



Joined: 01 Nov 2010
Posts: 145
Location: Elyria, Ohio

PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back to painting straight lines. If yours ever look like this then you have a problem. I pass by this house often on our daily walks so today a took a pic of the attic windows. Looks like they painted the sash with a roller.


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80 windows, 48 done, 32 to go

Pics of my house:
http://s492.photobucket.com/albums/rr281/mattswabb/West%20ave/?start=all
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rncx



Joined: 21 Jun 2008
Posts: 660
Location: Little Rock, AR

PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i see someone else has discovered that those irwin clamps are one of the few quality items that home depot has ;).
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Neal
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Hannah



Joined: 20 May 2011
Posts: 74
Location: Kansas City

PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah! They came in a giant gift pack of clamps I got for my birthday a few years back. They've been invaluable!
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Hannah
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Hannah



Joined: 20 May 2011
Posts: 74
Location: Kansas City

PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bathroom window is done! Now that the 110-degree plus heat wave is over (knock on wood), I'm going to be scrambling to get the windows done in the east bedroom before winter. They're two of the worst. I'm really pleased with the quality of the Larson Gold Series storm window I've installed (and plan to install all the way 'round the house). It's very heavy and sturdy, easy to operate and install. Now I can open this window top and/or bottom, with the screen that goes all the way up!


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Hannah
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johnleeke
Site Admin


Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Posts: 2972
Location: Portland, Maine, USA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wahoo! Nothing like success on your first go-round.
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Hannah



Joined: 20 May 2011
Posts: 74
Location: Kansas City

PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 2:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One down, nine to go. Here are the two I'm tackling next.

East bedroom, south window:


Somebody installed jamb liners in this south window and the sashes have been cut down about 1" from their original width. The sashes have huge dadoes cut out of their stiles to accomodate coil springs. I think I'm going to rout a channel in the replacement jambs (which are totally smooth for the liners), install wooden parting strip and reel-and-cable balances, and fill in the sash dadoes with another strip and Abatron. The sashes will remain narrower than they originally were, but not by much. My "temporary weather panel" is another of those awesome Larson storms. The exterior trim needs quite a bit of work, and a new finish sill and rough sill.

East bedroom, east window:


This one is gonna be fun.

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Hannah
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Measure twice, cut once.
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mattswabb



Joined: 01 Nov 2010
Posts: 145
Location: Elyria, Ohio

PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

At least removing the paint and glazing on the one looks like it will be easy.
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80 windows, 48 done, 32 to go

Pics of my house:
http://s492.photobucket.com/albums/rr281/mattswabb/West%20ave/?start=all
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Hannah



Joined: 20 May 2011
Posts: 74
Location: Kansas City

PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha! Yeah, if I let it sit another year or so, the paint and putty will probably finish removing themselves!
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Hannah
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Measure twice, cut once.
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Hannah



Joined: 20 May 2011
Posts: 74
Location: Kansas City

PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got the sashes out from the two above windows and am working on them any chance I get in my garage/workshop. Replaced the south window's sill today. The sashes are almost ready to go back into the south window, I've got my parting bead stock, but I still am scratching my head over how to rout that dado in the jamb to recieve the parting bead.

I don't have a router yet, and I think a router would be too big to fit into the jamb anyway. I'm considering buying the Dremel Precision Router Base (sold by Stewart MacDonald for routing marquetry) but I don't know if this job would be too much for it. The Dremel, of course, is tiny and it's rated for "light duty" as a router. Jambs soft pine, not the old stuff--second growth timber.

I am almost crazy enough to do it with wood chisels and hammer, but this would be quite time-consuming and cause me to curse and hit my thumbs a lot.

Another thing I've been thinking about is to cut down the parting bead a little narrower and just nail it onto the jamb without recessing it--but I think this would be flimsy in the long term, perhaps warp over time and impede the sashes--agree/disagree, anyone?


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Hannah
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