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Mic-Hal
Joined: 14 Dec 2010 Posts: 37 Location: Weirton WV, Cape Cod MA
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Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 4:28 pm Post subject: |
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John, It is so much easier to rehab and glaze them mentally while sitting at the computer!
My mother always told me about the power of positive thinking, perhaps if I THINK hard enough they will all be done, and new storms put on too. LOL! |
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smithsash
Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Posts: 94 Location: providence, ri
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Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 12:24 pm Post subject: Sarco Putty |
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I just received this email from one of my customers, it sounds as though he has a bit of experience with various putty formulations.
Looking forward to trying the Sarco glazing - the Dap has gone rapidly downhill over the past few years, and the less said about the latex alternatives, the better....
Thanks!
Best regards,
Justin |
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Skuce
Joined: 08 Nov 2009 Posts: 188 Location: Ontario Canada
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Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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I hear it up here in Canada all the time
"Dap is Crap" _________________ Drew Skuce
PSC Heritage Restoration
5-48 Woodslee Ave. Paris, Ont. Canada
www.ParadigmShiftCustoms.com |
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DougAU
Joined: 25 May 2013 Posts: 3 Location: Amana, Iowa
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Posted: Wed May 29, 2013 9:19 pm Post subject: |
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I know this thread is played out but I have a question.
> I'm a carpenter/cabinetmaker/window restorer in Iowa. I live in the historic Amana Colonies and we are loosing aprox. 4 or 5 houses a year to vinyl windows. Not sure that we can change the trend, most of the people here have grown up with the historic windows and are tired of trying to repair/maintain the old windows. We have an annex building with countless old sashes just sitting there waiting in limbo. I'm trying to see what I can do to change this trend. Most of the windows here are made up of 9 over 6's, 6 over 6's, some church windows with 12 over 9's and a few 2 over 2's.
I've just finished reading the twelve pages of glazing putty analysis and found it very informative! For once three hours on the internet did prove valuable.
I'm one of those people that have been using Dap 33 for the past 30 plus years and I hate the stuff, I recently found information about the Allback
putty from solventfree.com I'm awaiting my first tub of the stuff so that I can try it out. I read about it on another forum and through that forum I found yours.
I'm also ordering some sarco type M putty today to see how that works.
While reading on your forum I came across a reference from Jade, a regular contributor to your site, regarding Crawfords putty, I use the green can for nail filler inside and always saw the orange can in the paint store but didn't know what it was, after seeing the reference here I tried it out this weekend and with all certainty I can say this , I will never have to use Dap 33 again. I'm fairly impressed with the Crawfords but it leads me to my question that I cant find an answer to, what can I paint over it with, oil, water base, primer, top coat?
I prime my sashes with linseed oil based primer from Diamond Vogel, as far as I can tell they are the only paint company around that still has linseed oil primer, its marketed as SureSeal. Around here the old timers have always told me that linseed oil primer was very good but hard to find. I do the BLO on the glaze rabbet, sometimes the sureseal and do not see any difference with my glaze adhering to the wood.
Sorry for the long way around a simple question
Thanks a lot for any help
Doug |
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johnleeke Site Admin
Joined: 20 Aug 2004 Posts: 2972 Location: Portland, Maine, USA
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Posted: Thu May 30, 2013 4:05 am Post subject: |
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Doug, welcome to the Forum. It's good to hear about your window work there in Iowa.
I have not used or tested Crawford's Putty. Perhaps Jade and others will chime in here on their experience.
Many of the window specialist I know use Sarco Type M or Sarco MultiGlaze. Ed Sarsfield at Sarco usually recommends letting them skin over well, not priming the putty, just applying topcoats of paint.
I've use Sarco Type M a lot for about 9 years and always have primed it with a fast-drying oil-based alkyd resin primer and had success with it.
Here is more on methods of glazing and painting sash:
http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=955
The methods used always lead more directly to success than the specific products used.
Also, there is an all new chapter on glazing and painting sash in the new edition of the book, Save America's Windows, which is based mostly on info in the link above. How to get the book:
http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw/reports/reports.htm#Windows _________________ John
by hammer and hand great works do stand
by pen and thought best words are wrought
Last edited by johnleeke on Fri May 31, 2013 7:18 am; edited 1 time in total |
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DougAU
Joined: 25 May 2013 Posts: 3 Location: Amana, Iowa
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Posted: Thu May 30, 2013 9:33 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks John, this place has so much information that I don't have enough time to take it all in.
Appreciate the help in getting me signed in.
Thanks
Doug |
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johnleeke Site Admin
Joined: 20 Aug 2004 Posts: 2972 Location: Portland, Maine, USA
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Posted: Fri May 31, 2013 7:22 am Post subject: |
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Doug, it sounds like you are doing window work for other people. Would you like to be on my list of window specialists so I can recommend you when people call me, and also be in the directory of window specialists in the book, Save America's Windows? If so, please post your contact info, a brief description of your window work and your service area.
Thanks for saving windows there in Iowa. _________________ John
by hammer and hand great works do stand
by pen and thought best words are wrought |
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johnleeke Site Admin
Joined: 20 Aug 2004 Posts: 2972 Location: Portland, Maine, USA
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