Glazing Points (with Video).
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Bron



Joined: 14 Dec 2010
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Location: NW Indiana

PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John,

I think I'm more concerned with "messing" up the edge of the putty knife; I'm going to have to hide this new one, as the last good one wandered off to somebodies scraping project. Took some time to get a nice polish on it.

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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IN wrote:
I think I'm more concerned with "messing" up the edge of the putty knife...


The end-edge of my putty knife is not sharp, like a cutting edge. In fact, I've just looked at a relatively new one, and it is "perfectly dull", ground straight across. My oldest, favorite one, is also dull, slightly rounded over on the end-edge. Setting points with it does not seem to "ding" it up at all.

But, I'm not against using a special tool for setting points.

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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I usually don't recommend buying at the greedy corporate owned big box stores, but Lowes is now listing the spade point at their website:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_58230-37672-532440_0__?productId=3036053

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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Diamond Clipper point pusher.

Made by the Fletcher-Terry Co. from about the 1950s to the 1970s.
I first heard about this device in 2005 when I was training some homeowners and tradespeople in Brookings, South Dakota. One of the trainees told us about it and made a rough sketch of it. She had used it as a girl when she was working in a framing shop.
I learned the name of it from Bud, the old gent who repaired point drivers at Fletcher-Terry Co. in Massachusetts (back in 2006, when Fletcher-Terry was a responsible manufacturer of window tools).
I set up an auto-search on eBay for it, and after 7 years it finally showed up and I got this one.
It takes a stack of no. 1 points and neatly sets each point into the neck of the glazing rabbet with a push, setting the point slightly off the glass. It's all metal construction and is light-weight. While it is well made it seems somewhat fragile, mainly because of the spring that loops up and then down to press on the stack of points. I think it will take a special box or holster to protect it my tool kit.
I plan to keep it in my "pocket kit" that I take on up on ladders for spot repairs like small pane replacement, or in my "onsite" glazing kit.



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Diamond Clipper Point Pusher
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woodturner



Joined: 23 May 2006
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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnleeke wrote:
I usually don't recommend buying at the greedy corporate owned big box stores, but Lowes is now listing the spade point at their website:


Has anyone successfully bought them?

Both Lowes and Hillman list those as spade points, but when I bought the specified part number from Lowes, they were the regular points, not the spade type. I called both Lowes and Hillman, but really got no where. The Hillman part number and packaging for the points I got at Lowes were correct and should have been the spade type, but Hillman is apparently packaging the regular points under the spade point part number.
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the update on these suppliers. Just goes to show that the greedy corporations in the consumer economy don't care about anything other than getting your money.
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mhead110



Joined: 31 May 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, I'm in the middle of a big glazing project and I just went on Ebay looking for the Fletcher Terry #5 driver,

--and got a trigger finger-- wound up bidding on a "CRL model PD5 point driver" which is the same color as the F-T-- and its ebay link came up when I clicked on John's Link!!

I wonder if anyone can advise me whether I should continue with this auction or try to retract the bid-- will this machine work with any 3/8" diamond points or only its own, and is it of the quality of the F-T?

Ebay tells me I can probably retract the bid, but talk to the seller first.

thanks,

and thanks John, always, for this forum and your generous advice.
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This webpage:
http://www.technologylk.com/crl-universal-point-driver-lk-PD5.html
Suggests the PD5 takes two sizes of diamond points and one size of triangle points, BUT I don't have a PD5 on hand to check this.


Carefully examine the photos in your auction. If they show the top of the point magazine with its little "christmas tree" shaped hole, then it probably does take three sizes of diamond and triangle points.

In other respects the PD5 looks a lot line the PD9 described on the first page of this discussion. (you are now on the second page of this discussion). Here is the first page:
http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=531&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

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mhead110



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, John,

I had read the entire thread; there's always so much good info shared, but I didn't see my questions addressed thus far.

Since this is the CRL PD5, I'm sure it will take multiple sizes of CRL points, but my questions were:

1) will this machine work with any 3/8" diamond points or only its own,

(I already have lots of F-T 3/8" points, but have not had much luck inserting them by hand, hence my looking for a machine-- and the FT "Pushmate" seems a joke-- the little tails on it stick out so much that you can only push the diamond in by about 1/16". I'm not clear on the concept of the "tails" -- even using the conventional, modern 3-d points, the tails create a gap between the part of the points that sticks up along the muntin, perpendicular to the glass, & the wood. Strange.

BTW, FYI, I just talked to a rep from Fletcher Terry who tells me, yes, their diamond points will work with the CR Lawrence machine. He further said that those points were only designed to go 1/8" into the wood, so the Pushmate is doing what is expected. Still seems weird to me.


and 2) (does anyone have experience with it to know if) the quality of the CRL machine is as good as the Fletcher-Terry # 5 of which you are so fond?

I guess I'll give it a try, since the FT 5 doesn't come up often. My lites are so small (12 over 12) that I'll only be able to use the machine in the vertical direction, but it will still save a lot of work. maybe it will work on a slight diagonal for the side points?

alexis
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
and the FT "Pushmate" seems a joke-- the little tails on it stick out so much that you can only push the diamond in by about 1/16".


Perhaps you could file or grind off the little tales enough so the diamond point goes in further.


Quote:
(does anyone have experience with it to know if) the quality of the CRL machine is as good as the Fletcher-Terry # 5 of which you are so fond?


The CRL PD9 I have is made of all metal and appears to be nearly as good a quality as the old #5s, although I have been using it for only about it year, it is still working nicely. I would expect the PD5 to be the same quality, or perhaps somewhat better since it is older.

Quote:
My lites are so small (12 over 12) that I'll only be able to use the machine in the vertical direction, but it will still save a lot of work. maybe it will work on a slight diagonal for the side points?


The following is true for the PD9 and, I suspect, may also apply to the PD5, since the PD9 is a "successor" model of the PD5:

The bottom of the PD9 Point Driver must be held in perfectly flat contact with the glass surface when fired. Failure to do so will result in points dropping through the bottom of the driver when the trigger is activated, possibly cracking the glass. Panes must be at least 6 1/8" across to set this point driver flat on the pane.

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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The glazing points discussion continues over here at the new Save America's Windows website forum:


http://saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6

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