Sash Stile End Check Repair (with Video).
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johnleeke
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Joined: 20 Aug 2004
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Location: Portland, Maine, USA

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 7:40 am    Post subject: Sash Stile End Check Repair (with Video). Reply with quote

This is a method for repairing splits at the end of the sash stiles using wood-epoxy repair methods.


Video: Entire method, 20min.

Step-by-Step Procedure

1. Clean out checks and joint, assess conditions, plan repair.

2. Apply release agent to joint.

3. Apply epoxy consolidant.

4. Apply epoxy filler.

5. Trim off excess epoxy

Tools:

more to come...

Materials:

more to come...


click "post reply" to leave comments or ask questions

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Last edited by johnleeke on Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:46 pm; edited 8 times in total
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Mike-in-Maine



Joined: 08 Nov 2008
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Location: Fort Kent, ME

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How timely. this is the next step in my current project (10 sashes on the runway!). Nothing new to me in this video but it can surely help others!
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 3:31 pm    Post subject: Sanding off epoxy filled end checks. Reply with quote

Sanding off epoxy filled end checks.


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pager



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Which consolidant are you using in this video, John? BTW it is very helpful.
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The epoxy materials used here are Abatron's LiquidWood consolidant and WoodEpoxy paste filler. Some other wood-epoxy repair materials would work as well.

Learn more about epoxy materials here at the Library:

http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw/library/OHJEpoxy2004/OHJEpoxy2004.htm

and in the Practical Restoration Report, Wood-Epoxy Repairs:

http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw/reports/reports.htm#Wood-Epoxy%20Repairs

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MartinDavidHickman



Joined: 25 Oct 2012
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Location: Philadelphia

PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2013 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the use of the pallete knife. I'll have to pick up one of those for this kind of work. Why were you so concerned about getting the filler just in the checks? Why not hit the cured filler with a ROS and be done with it?

I find it interesting that you mentioned the thinned down filler is useful as a filler and adhesive. I haven't had consistent results attempting to use the abatron system as an adhesive. I've consolidated and filled joints with just abatron and it wasn't secure. I'm assuming the key is to thin the filler down with the liquid wood and that somehow makes it a glue?

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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2013 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ROS?

Yes, a mixture of LiquidWood and WoodEpox can act as an adhesive in light-duty situations like this, and others like gluing a wood dutchman in place. I would not use it in structural situations where high strength is needed. For that I might use one of the West System adhesives.

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MartinDavidHickman



Joined: 25 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Random Orbital Sander. Woodworker nerd speak...

Right, I think I read on the Abatron site that the liquid wood does weaken the strength of the woodepox or reduce the flexibility.

Which brings me to my next concern: I was originally taught to use the West Systems epoxy. The method I learned was actually similar to yours. For joint repair, thin the part A and B WS epoxy with a small amount of acetone and use it like a primer/consolidant just like the liquid wood. Then mix up another batch of A and B and thicken it up with the 403 microfiber filler (for strength) and top the batch off with the 407 fairing filler (for ease of sanding).

What I became concerned about with that system is flexibility. I wasn't convinced it moved with the joint. So I stuck with loose tenon/dutchmen repairs and used the wood epox as an adhesive. But I do all kinds of on-site work now where a full epoxy repair makes the most sense and I find myself using titebond polyurethane glue.

Any thoughts on the flexibility of the WS (maybe the G/flex is something worth trying?) and on the quality of polyurethane glue?

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Martin David Hickman
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archw



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 12:23 pm    Post subject: A substitute for palette knife... Reply with quote

I have been using a dental amalgam filling instrument with a plunge lever to distribute epoxy filler into cavities that otherwise would be difficult to fill. It works great!
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Martin:

Quote:
I read on the Abatron site that the liquid wood does weaken the strength of the WoodEpox or reduce the flexibility.


Adding LiquidWood to WoodEpox does definitely change the strength characteristics of the WoodEpox. "Strength" is measured in several different ways: compressive, torsion, modulus of elasticity, adhesive, cohesive, density, etc.

Adding LiquidWood to WoodEpox makes it more adhesive, more dense, and less flexible. It's possible to adjust the A to B ratio of the mix of both LiquidWood and WoodEpox to make it more or less flexible. So that is what I do if I want a flexible, gap-filling adhesive.

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Last edited by johnleeke on Wed Oct 09, 2013 9:08 am; edited 1 time in total
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arch:

Quote:
a dental amalgam filling instrument


For years I've been talking with my dentist about the similarities of filling teeth and wood-epoxy repairs, and never though of using a dental amalgam filling instrument.

Thank you, thank you, thank you for this idea. It would be excellent for applying the paste filler in this use.

I just ordered some on eBay.

How do you clean yours?

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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The sash stile end-check repair discussion continues over here at the new Save America's Windows website forum:


http://saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8

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