CONSOLIDATING OIL RESIN APPLICATION PROBLEM
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etojennifer



Joined: 13 Nov 2017
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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 11:15 pm    Post subject: CONSOLIDATING OIL RESIN APPLICATION PROBLEM Reply with quote

HI JOHN

I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE COR PROCEDURE THAT I RECENTLY APPLIED.

I HAVE A 1904 HOME IN LOS ANGELES, CA

WHEN I PRIMED AND PAINTED AFTER THE PRE-TREATMENT COR PROCESS, THERE APPEARS TO BE A SHINY SURFACE ON THE SHINGLES. SEE ATTACHED PHOTOS. IT IS NOT SHINY ON THE VENT, OR THE FASCIA, THAT IS PAINTED A CREAM COLOR. THESE WERE DONE AROUND THE SAME TIME.

THE SHINGLES AND MOULDING ARE REDWOOD. THE FASCIA AND THE FRAME OF THE VENT IS MADE OF DOUGLAS FIR.

I FOLLOWED YOUR PROCEDURE TO THE LETTER. I APPLIED IN THE SHADE. IT WAS VERY DRY WHEN I PUT ON THE COR. ABOUT 3% HUMIDITY. SO I PRIMED PRETTY QUICKLY, ABOUT 30 MINUTES. WHEN I FELT THE SHINGLES THEY WERE NOT STICKY AND HAD A MATTE SURFACE. I LET THE ALKYD PRIMER DRY CONSIDERABLY, ABOUT A FEW DAYS.

THE FORMULA I USED IS 3 PARTS FLOODS PENETROL AND 1 PART TURPENTINE.

PRIMER IS BENJAMIN MOORE FRESH START ALKYD PRIMER TINTED.
PAINT IS PRATT & LAMBERT ACCOLADE 100% ACRYLIC, EGGSHELL.

SO MY QUESTIONS TO YOU ARE THESE:

1. WHY ARE THE SHINGLES SHINY?
2. HOW DO I GET THE SHINE OFF THE SHINGLES?

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ADDED QUESTION

I SAW ON A PRIOR POST THAT YOU TOLD A MEMBER WHO LIVED IN SAN DIEGO, THAT THEY COULD USE THE OLD FORMULA PAINT PREP. LINSEED OIL AND TURPENTINE. BECAUSE OF THE ARID CLIMATE. HIS WAS WORKING ON SASH WINDOWS.

DO YOU THINK I CAN GO BACK AND USE THE OLD FORMULA ON ALL THE WOOD ON MY HOUSE?

I USED IT BEFORE ON 2 SIDES. PAINT JOB IS LASTING GREAT. THE ENVY OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD.



THANKS JOHN

JENNIFER
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jennifer, welcome to the Forum!

Did the vent and facia get exactly the same paint removal, pretreatment, primer and top coat?

How many top coats of paint have you put on?

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etojennifer



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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 3:58 pm    Post subject: CONSOLIDATING OIL RESIN APPLICATION PROBLEM Reply with quote

HI JOHN

EVERYTHING RECEIVED THE SAME PAINT REMOVAL PROCESS. HEAT GUN.

1 COAT OF PAINT ON SHINGLES. 2 COATS OF PAINT ON TRIM AND VENT.

THANKS JENNIFER[list[/list]
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etojennifer



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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ADD ON TO POST

AND 2 COATS OF PAINT ON THE FACIA.

JENNIFER
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etojennifer



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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ADD ON

EVERYTHING RECEIVED THE SAME PROCESS OF REMOVAL, PRE-TREAT,
AND PRIME AND PAINT.

JENNIFER
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2018 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
1. WHY ARE THE SHINGLES SHINY?


OK, here are a few possibilities:

-- Some areas of the shingles (where the shine is) are more dense that other areas and the resins in the pre-treatment have completely filled the less-porous wood surface so the primer did not get a chance to penetrate the wood.

-- Solvent vapors from the pre-treatment are migrating up through the primer and topcoat on the shingles resulting in the shinny spots. Penetrol has a significant proportion of mineral spirits that evaporate, and turpentine is most solvents that will evaporate. These vapors could be effecting how the paint dries and cures. Waiting a few or several more days to prime would let more of the vapors come out (even though this does not fit my "80% cure" theory).

-- You are using primer and paint from different companies. They may be reacting to each other or to the vapors from the pre-treatment in an unexpected way. It is usually best practice to select primer and topcoat from the same company to assure their compatibility.

Quote:
2. HOW DO I GET THE SHINE OFF THE SHINGLES?


What to try next:

Do a test. In a small area (such as two or three shingles with shiny spots) apply a second top coat of paint. If all the vapors from the pre-treatment have passed out, and the primer and first coat of paint are stable, then this second coat may result in an even sheen. I would wait at least three weeks to give a better chance for most of the vapors to get out of there. Then wait another two weeks to judge the results of the test. Report your results back here.

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etojennifer



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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2018 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HI JOHN

I DID THE TEST JUST LIKE YOU ASKED. UNFORTUNATELY THE SHINE REMAINS ON THE SHINGLES.

WHAT OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS WOULD YOU SUGGEST??

THANKS FOR YOU HELP

JENNIFER
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2018 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the same spots shiny? Did any new shiny spots appear?

Try this scratch test to determine how hard or soft the paint film is.

Scratch through the two top coats in the shiny spots and not-shiny areas. Scratch with the edge of a new penny. Scratch with your finger nail.

Is there any difference in the hardness/softness where it is shiny and non-shiny? Hard: the paint come off in particles or crumbs. Soft: the paint comes off in a compact lump or gooey mess.

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etojennifer



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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2018 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

THE SAME SPOTS ARE SHINY
THERE ARE NO NEW SHINY SPOTS

I DID THE PENNY SCRATCH TEST.

THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE TWEEN THE SHINY AND NOT-SHINY SPOTS.

THE PAINT IS HARD: COMES OFF IN PARTICLES OR CRUMBS.
NO GOOEY MESS

JENNIFER
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The shiny spots have me stumped.

Quote:
DO YOU THINK I CAN GO BACK AND USE THE OLD FORMULA ON ALL THE WOOD ON MY HOUSE? I USED IT BEFORE ON 2 SIDES. PAINT JOB IS LASTING GREAT. THE ENVY OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD.


If you know that's what worked, then go with that.

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John

by hammer and hand great works do stand
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etojennifer



Joined: 13 Nov 2017
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DO YOU THINK IT'S WORTH IT TO TAKE THE PAINT OFF THE SHINY
SHINGLES.

ONCE THE PAINT IS OFF SHOULD I LET THEM AIR OUT AND THEN
PRIME AND PAINT AGAIN?

BUT DON'T DO THE PRE-PREP THIS TIME..

JENNIFER
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2018 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's an idea worth trying out. Test it on the shingles where you did the previous testing.

I'd scrape the paint off the entire shingle with a sharp new carbide scraper, down to bare wood (some remnants of the primer OK), no pre-treatment, prime and top coat(s). I would not use chemical stripping or heat stripping methods.

Your thought to "air out" is good. I'd try it on a couple of test shingles, and also do a couple test shingles without airing out, just to see if it's really necessary.

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etojennifer



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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2018 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

THANKS JOHN I'M GOING TO TRY TAKING THE PAINT OFF.

I'LL LET YOU KNOW WHAT HAPPENS.

THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR WONDERFUL ADVICE.

THANK GOODNESS YOU ARE HERE FOR US ADVENTUROUS HOMEOWNERS.

JENNIFER
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2018 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jennifer, glad to help, take care and work safe.
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