Another door problem
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TideWater



Joined: 03 Aug 2014
Posts: 29

PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2019 2:36 pm    Post subject: Another door problem Reply with quote

Sorry about the opaque subject, but I don't know what to call the failing part I'm asking about - so that's my first question: What is this? And the next obvious question is how do I fix it? Look at the attached photos from the bottom one up.

- Thanks.
Andy



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Close-up inside the crack in the failing mortar above the board.
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View from underneath
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See drooping board along top of door
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PJ



Joined: 08 Jan 2018
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2019 6:00 pm    Post subject: My thoughts Reply with quote

I do not know technically what it would be called.
I would refer to it as a “water shed”; similar to what you would see above a frieze board when it is below the the clapboards by the foundation. Based on the pictures it does not appear to be a structural component. I think it failed because the lead flashing is gone.

My first approach would be to consider Azex with lead flashing. That is your choice. I would remove all of the wood and see what type of cavity i have left. A careful inspection of the header is needed to ensure water did not get behind it and cause unseen rot.

Square up the cavity as best you can (maybe even chipping away a little stone). Cut the angle on the face (maybe the back too) and try several test fits scribing the back edge as best you can. Fasten by either nailing to the header or a caulk based adhesive. Add flashing!

Please post what you decide to do. Best of luck.

PJ
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johnleeke
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Joined: 20 Aug 2004
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Location: Portland, Maine, USA

PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd call it a "cap."

It looks like the cap has shifted downward and outward since that mortar was placed. I'd want to find out why it shifted before I made repairs. Do you know when the mortar was done?
Is the cap sound or deteriorated? Is the cap loose? Looks like it's loose on the left end. If it easily wiggles see if you can wiggle it out. Go easy, there may be nails holding it in. If you get it out look in the slot to see if the wood of the door frame header is decayed. Is there a metal bar in there holding up the bricks? Is it rusted?

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TideWater



Joined: 03 Aug 2014
Posts: 29

PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2019 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was loose so I pulled it out today. The board was rotten but everything inside looks healthy (including the baby snake that fell out). There is no metal header and almost nothing supporting the bricks. It looks like it was attached originally with some nails from the bottom into the morter or brick and a few from the top angled into the top of the door surround (before the mortar was put in). Photos are below (sorry, the snake got away too quickly).

What do you think is the best way to reattach a new board? Also, since I removed some nice chunks of original-looking mortar, I thought this might be a good time to have it tested so I can use the right mix for the repair. Is there anyone you'd recommend?



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johnleeke
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Joined: 20 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2019 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Consider this:

Shape the new cap to match the old, out of a decay resistant wood like Spanish Cedar or Mahogany. Test fit and shape the board to fit the space so it slopes down to shed water. If using a less decay resistant wood, treat it with a migrating borate preservative like BoraCare.
Make a flashing out of sheet lead to cover the whole board, that you can fold down over the edges of the board, letting the lead hang down 1/4" below the bottom side of the board.
To install the cap, slide it into the place with the lead laying flat on the board, fold up the lead against the bricks above, screw the board on with stainless steel screws that go into the door frame header or the edge of the door casing. Fold the lead down onto the top of the cap, and form the lead so it covers the ends and front edge of the board, final trim the lead so its edges are about 1/4" below the bottom surface of the cap. This little extension will form a drip bead so water drips off the lead and does not get on the wood cap board.

Fill the gap between the cap and the bricks above with mortar.

Please post some photos underway and the final result.

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by hammer and hand great works do stand
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Last edited by johnleeke on Tue Apr 30, 2019 5:33 am; edited 1 time in total
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TideWater



Joined: 03 Aug 2014
Posts: 29

PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2019 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How should I attach the lead?
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 5:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Attach the lead with small hot-dipped galvanized nails, about every 6" along the edges of the cap board.
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TideWater



Joined: 03 Aug 2014
Posts: 29

PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the flashing is placed against the brick above the door, wouldn't that pose a risk of rainwater running down the face of the wall and getting behind the flashing? And how would I attach it to the brick?

I was thinking of something like this drawing. After screwing the cap into place, I'd lay the flashing over top of it to cover the screw holes then seal the gap between the top of the cap and the bottom of the bricks above with some mortar. A possible problem thought is that the mortar joint would be fairly wide.

I suppose another possibility to prevent water intrusion between the flashing and the wall would be to cut a ridge into the morter joint between the first two bricks above the door and put the edge of the flashing in there, like on a chimney?



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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2019 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fold up against the brick face was to be temporary during installation. I did not realize there was this much vertical gap. Folding not necessary. So, not necessary to cut into the mortar like a chimney flashing.

You should be able to screw the board in place, then put the lead flash in place, shape it around the edges of the cap, tack it in place, trim off allowing a 1/4" drip to hang below the bottom surface of the cap.

Mortar thick enough to fill the gap between the cap and the bricks should set and perform OK.

See sketch for further details.



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TideWater



Joined: 03 Aug 2014
Posts: 29

PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2019 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I'll give it a try.
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