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johnleeke Site Admin
Joined: 20 Aug 2004 Posts: 1984 Location: Portland, Maine, USA
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shclin
Joined: 02 Jan 2009 Posts: 1 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 10:46 am Post subject: |
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John,
Yes, I am very satisfied with the air panels. Thanks for the great info! You had asked if I noticed a difference in the room and I had said it was hard to tell. Well, I had a gap at the top of one panel and also noticed that the panels had popped out of position. After I sealed the top and re-seated the panels, there is a definite difference in the room.
I'm looking for a different solution for keeping the panels in place as I would prefer not to use screws as you recommend. I was thinking maybe using those 3M Command strips and will let you know how that works.
http://foresthall.blogspot.com/2008/12/more-on-windows.html
Steve |
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Laura
Joined: 02 Feb 2007 Posts: 9 Location: New Hampshire
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Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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After posting my first question in this thread two years ago, I've made almost a dozen storms following John's instructions. My results have gotten better with practice and yes, I did finally manage to improve my technique for cutting the backer rod. <laugh>
The storms have made a huge difference. In fact, Dave Bowers currently has the sashes for my three kitchen windows at his restoration shop so I've had only the interior storms and original exterior storms in that room for a several weeks. In the dead of winter, the room has been comfortable.
I did find some features at this link that I've added to the new storms I'm making and retrofitted to some of my earlier ones.:
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/energy/conservation/basics_1/window_cover.htm
I would never attempt to cut my frames to the close tolerances called for by those directions, especially on the windows that are out of square. I'm still using the backer rod on the edges, but I've been adding the folded plastic strips stapled to the backs of the frame in the HammerZone version. It does a great job of filling in spaces where the backer rod was crimped in its package (or the cutting was less than ideal as in my first attempts). It makes it much easier to slide the storm into the window frame and I don't have a problem with the backer rod being dislodged from the frame during installation at spots where the fit is tight.
The downside is that the plastic that slides in more easily also slides out more easily when the wind is roaring. In my case, the round head wood screws that hold the stops prevent the storms from blowing out altogether, but that may be a consideration for other folks.
I also added small loops of cloth based on the idea of the handles in the HammerZone article and found them very helpful in getting the frame properly positioned for the best fit and effectiveness without accidentally poking my finger through the shrink film.
I've been very pleased with my air panels, in terms of both effectiveness and appearance. Even with my limited carpentry skills, the first panel was acceptable. Things have gotten better (and faster) since. Well worth the time, effort and expense! Thanks for getting me started, John! |
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johnleeke Site Admin
Joined: 20 Aug 2004 Posts: 1984 Location: Portland, Maine, USA
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Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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yer welcome !
and thanks for the update _________________ John
by hammer and hand great works do stand
by pen and thought best words are wrought |
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OKLA
Joined: 02 Mar 2009 Posts: 2
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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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This has been a very helpful information. I'm working on it already. Thanks:) _________________ Storm Shelter |
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judell
Joined: 24 Oct 2009 Posts: 1
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Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 4:21 pm Post subject: Re: Cutting backer rod weatherstripping |
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I so wanted that pull-through jig to work. For me it didn't, at least not yet. So for my prototype I chiseled a U-shaped channel along the short edge of a board, about half the depth of the rod. If I lay the rod down into that channel, it's pretty easy to slice it with an Exacto knife.
For production, though, I would love to make that jig work. If somebody has a picture of one in use that might help. |
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johnleeke Site Admin
Joined: 20 Aug 2004 Posts: 1984 Location: Portland, Maine, USA
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Posted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 4:00 pm Post subject: |
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SpokanRose writes:
Last Fall, I built 10 air panels for all the first story windows on my 1903 house. The windows are all original including the glass and all need to be repaired. This includes windows that have some cracks in the leaded glass portions or half the window caulk is gone. The cold air just whistled through. All are double hung windows and 5 of theses windows are 24 ft square. The air panels cost about $.85 a square foot to make. I built them on the dining room table. I installed in November. As each panel went up the difference in room comfort was AMAZING. Our winter was brutal. No ice formed on the windows, no green hairy mold bloomed on the sashes. Our drapes did not develop the usual brown water drip line from the wet-cold- dry cycle. And best of all, the panels are crystal clear. No one can tell they are in place. [I stained the wood to match the ebony stain of my windows]. This year I will try to build air panels for the upstairs eight windows. Forget the energy rebate. I love these panels.
By the way I am the building manager of a near-by National Historic Register building that had a portion of it's windows replaced with Vinyl 10 years ago. About 33% of these windows have failed at this point in time. So sad. I wish I had been around to stop them from pulling out the originals. _________________ John
by hammer and hand great works do stand
by pen and thought best words are wrought |
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