Profile Scraper question
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EPS&C



Joined: 12 Jan 2010
Posts: 13
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:48 pm    Post subject: Profile Scraper question Reply with quote

I'm wondering what people's opinions are on profile scrapers. We don't have a set yet and are looking to make the purchase pretty soon.
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Jeff



Joined: 01 Jul 2007
Posts: 42
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We use Spectrum ProPrep razor blade scrapers and we love them! In fact, I don't know what I ever did without them. We use them on windows, doors, and wood trim. We buy them from the one remaining, privately owned, full-service paint store in town (that hasn't been bought up by Ben. Moore...hiss, booh, hiss). But you likely will get a better price online. Here's one link to show you what they look like: http://www.dtep.com/proprep.htm

Of course, you have to be careful with them. They are quite sharp and can easily scratch the wood if carelessly handled. Another downside is that we have yet to find a way to sharpen the dull blades. But they are so effective and save so much time that the cost of new blades isn't a problem.

The one complaint about scrapers, in general, is that I don't know anyone who makes a scraper that you can push rather than pull. Of course, one could use an old chisel, but that is not what chisels were made for. Besides, the place where you want to "poke" rather than "pull" is when you want to remove material from a tight corner. Even the narrowest chisel will do damage to the wood.

...so, eventually we decided to make our own. We took one of the Spectrum scrapers and ground it down to a triangular point about 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide. Then we mounted it on a long stick. (I'm not in my shop at the moment, or I would post a picture.) At any rate, it has stayed sharp surprisingly long--there are limited times when you need to poke rather than pull material out.

After you get beyond the scraper stage, you still have fine material to pull out (that is, if you are preparing wood for refinishing rather than painting). Rather than pay the high prices most suppliers charge for what they call "dental tools," we bought sets of clay sculpting tools from Amazon. Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/SE-Pick-Set-12Pc/dp/B000VS8CUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1266284542&sr=8-1
They aren't made of the sturdiest material, but if you're putting that much pressure on these tools, you are using the wrong tool and are in danger of gouging the wood.

Of course, you'll also want some good brass bristle brushes to remove stubborn paint and paint from the grain (but be careful, especially on soft wood such as pine sashes). We are no less fans of Ace Hardware than we are of Home Despot, but we DO like their brass bristle brushes. In fact, we have yet to find anyone who makes a brass bristle brush superior to the ones Ace sells. We have an arrangement with a local Ace and buy them in bulk--a hundred to two hundred packets (3 to a pack) at a time--which really knocks down the price per unit.

Jeff
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Vic



Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 59
Location: NYC

PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeff wrote:
We use Spectrum ProPrep razor blade scrapers and we love them! In fact, I don't know what I ever did without them. We use them on windows, doors, and wood trim. We buy them from the one remaining, privately owned, full-service paint store in town (that hasn't been bought up by Ben. Moore...hiss, booh, hiss). But you likely will get a better price online. Here's one link to show you what they look like: http://www.dtep.com/proprep.htm

Of course, you have to be careful with them. They are quite sharp and can easily scratch the wood if carelessly handled. Another downside is that we have yet to find a way to sharpen the dull blades. But they are so effective and save so much time that the cost of new blades isn't a problem.

The one complaint about scrapers, in general, is that I don't know anyone who makes a scraper that you can push rather than pull. Of course, one could use an old chisel, but that is not what chisels were made for. Besides, the place where you want to "poke" rather than "pull" is when you want to remove material from a tight corner. Even the narrowest chisel will do damage to the wood.

...so, eventually we decided to make our own. We took one of the Spectrum scrapers and ground it down to a triangular point about 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide. Then we mounted it on a long stick. (I'm not in my shop at the moment, or I would post a picture.) At any rate, it has stayed sharp surprisingly long--there are limited times when you need to poke rather than pull material out.

After you get beyond the scraper stage, you still have fine material to pull out (that is, if you are preparing wood for refinishing rather than painting). Rather than pay the high prices most suppliers charge for what they call "dental tools," we bought sets of clay sculpting tools from Amazon. Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/SE-Pick-Set-12Pc/dp/B000VS8CUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1266284542&sr=8-1
They aren't made of the sturdiest material, but if you're putting that much pressure on these tools, you are using the wrong tool and are in danger of gouging the wood.

Of course, you'll also want some good brass bristle brushes to remove stubborn paint and paint from the grain (but be careful, especially on soft wood such as pine sashes). We are no less fans of Ace Hardware than we are of Home Despot, but we DO like their brass bristle brushes. In fact, we have yet to find anyone who makes a brass bristle brush superior to the ones Ace sells. We have an arrangement with a local Ace and buy them in bulk--a hundred to two hundred packets (3 to a pack) at a time--which really knocks down the price per unit.

Jeff


Ask your Dentist for their used picks. They can not sharpen or grind them. I've gotten 100's free over the years
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rncx



Joined: 21 Jun 2008
Posts: 660
Location: Little Rock, AR

PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 12:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

another option, which i've used before, and is pretty easy to "roll your own" is a homebrew mop sander.

a small 1hp motor with a jury rigged plywood cover and a shop vac hose fitting works pretty well, you can get the mop heads themselves from dealers that sell commercial mop sanders.

the unit from woodmaster machinery (woodmastertools.com i think is the website) designed to fit on their planers can be used standalone, actually, for a pre-made option. that's what i'm using for sanding profiled pieces. it comes mounted on a steel plate that's cut to fit on their planer's outfeed end, but could just as easily be fit on to a shop made stand or bench or whatever.
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johnleeke
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Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Posts: 2940
Location: Portland, Maine, USA

PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are a couple of the discussion on window scrapers:

http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=987

http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=957

One includes a download of an article I wrote about grinding your own profile scrapers. It is possible to make a scraper that will not scratch or damage the wood.

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by hammer and hand great works do stand
by pen and thought best words are wrought
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