why building windows is fun...
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rncx



Joined: 21 Jun 2008
Posts: 660
Location: Little Rock, AR

PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 6:44 pm    Post subject: why building windows is fun... Reply with quote

cause every one can be a custom pattern without any (well, much) extra work.

building 3 casements and got the parts (mostly) cut today, and started mocking up the pattern to make sure the lengths were correct. mortises aren't done so that's why it bulges out.

i started with the third picture....

then it struck me that a lot of folks had patterns like that so i could do the second picture instead...

but i hated to waste the extra little muntins i had cut already so then i figured i'd put em on the side to use em, which ended up with the first picture...


anyway, i find it fun that there's something you can build which you can change completely mid-stream and have it still work . since the pattern is square and symmetrical the pieces will always fit, there are probably a half dozen other nice looking arrangements you could draw out of a hat and make work with the same pre cut lengths if you sat there and stared at it long enough.



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johnleeke
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Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Posts: 2972
Location: Portland, Maine, USA

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Creative sashmaking. I love it.
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by hammer and hand great works do stand
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sschoberg



Joined: 29 Oct 2008
Posts: 568
Location: Plymouth, Indiana

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't tell too many people we have so much fun. Or they'll want us to lower our prices.

Steve S
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rncx



Joined: 21 Jun 2008
Posts: 660
Location: Little Rock, AR

PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

first one dry fit, came out pretty well i think.

kicking my own butt for missing those two small knots on the one side and forgetting to put them on the outside. cest la vie, they'll smooth up and look ok i guess ;).



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smithsash



Joined: 23 Jan 2010
Posts: 94
Location: providence, ri

PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

very nice, looks great!


Justin
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rncx



Joined: 21 Jun 2008
Posts: 660
Location: Little Rock, AR

PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

got around to glazing/painting/finishing these this past week.

i put any ole leftover oil varnish i have lying around as a sealer first, just a single coat. these are cypress, which can have issues due to the watery residue in the wood with oil primers adhering properly as steve documented in this thread, so an oil sealer will eliminate that.

after that, on the insides, garnet shellac, 5 or 6 lightly sprayed coats. they'll get a coat of waterlox tomorrow after the shellac is set up good. i use sherwinn williams oil primer/oil enamel on the outsides.

one thing i didn't notice until sanding and tacking them, what's left of a shotgun pellet (third picture). right in the middle of the top of a muntin, too. kinda late in the game to try to remove it so i just finished over it, the shellac blackened it up so it just looks like a pinhole knot, it'll just have to live there.


A Note on Spraying Technique:

these are pretty complicated with so many small muntins and small spaces, when it comes to getting your shellac on evenly. for anyone that might try their hand at spraying such a thing with shellac, you need a plan of attack on how to get it even before you start.

i find it best with windows to start on the inside, and work your way out. meaning, the parts that always wind up with the least finish on them are the sides of the muntin as they approach the glass. especially when spraying, the mist tends to ricochet off of those corners and just disappear into the air, leaving you with too light a coat on those muntin sides and too thick a coat on the tops of the muntins.

so with that in mind, i work my way in from each edge of the window (north, south east, west) spraying whatever mutnin sides are directly facing me from each direction. then after the muntin sides are done, i turn the spray gun horizontal and spray just the tops of the boards for the rest of that coat.

i'll follow that method for about 75% of the coats, then on the last coats i ignore the muntin sides and just liberally dust the whole sash going in random directions with the spray gun, giving a bit of extra oomph to spots that are too light to blend them in.

after your last couple of random dusting coats, the result should be pretty uniform in appearance.

generally, i use a 2 pound cut of shellac in the gun, a 2mm needle (larger than the typical 1.5mm needle used for paint/varnish) to restrict the output a bit more, and a very light flow setting. if your first coat is barely discernible from the wood you started with, and goes on looking like you're just spraying water mist from a windex bottle at the wood, that's about right. at that amount of flow from the gun it'll take you 3-4 coats to get good consistent coverage, and you can add a 5th/6th coat for darker color if you're using garnet/amber/etc.



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