Exactly how to install spring bronze weatherstripping
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costlie



Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 1
Location: Midwest

PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:07 am    Post subject: Exactly how to install spring bronze weatherstripping Reply with quote

I need to weatherstrip our old wooden front door which has a 1/4" gap running the entire length of the latch side, and a smaller gap along the top. Other doors in our 1919 home have spring bronze weatherstripping which seems to work nicely, so that's what I'm hoping will work. I am nervous about installing it, however, because 1) I don't want to nail something into my doorframe that won't fill the gap, and 2) I don't want to install it wrong. 3) see latch qustion below

I have looked online for "how to" instructions and they all say nail it in place and set the tension by prying it up with a screwdriver. There is even one web site that says to score it and fold it into a V shape. I'm assuming that that is wrong, or is that what "pry it up" means? Even if it's just running a screwdriver under it I am worried that it will kink and look bad.

My questions are:
1) Is this an appropriate choice of weatherstripping material for my circumstances or is there something that would work better?
2) Am I worrying about nothing or is it really as easy to install as that? Do you know of any pictures anywhere of exactly how to do it? It would be worth a thousand words. Any advice for making sure it doesn't kink?
3) I know I have to trim away the bronze strip around the latch, but how do I keep air from coming in there?

Any advice would be appreciated.
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jade



Joined: 11 Feb 2005
Posts: 786
Location: Hawley MA

PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

costlie.....
welcome to the forum!

here are my suggestions......
go to www.thomasregister.com/olc/00491001/26.htm there you will see visual aids for installation of weather stripping...i think the #118L will offer a way to install without having to cut around to allow for the lockset......
1) i think spring bronze is an excellent choice...
2) the product is really easy to install...you can order it from accurate metal (see the website above) in new york cut to any size...make sure you ask for nails--1" or 1 1/8" copper coated...the product is fairly rigid and should not kink...put the weather stripping in place, then nail at the top, bottom and center then fill in the rest...i suggest nailing at 2" intervals...it will make things easier if you lay the weatherstripping on a piece of wood and predrill it with a bit no larger than the shaft of the nail
3) with the #118, no cutting is required...if you choose another type, tin snips or sheet metal shears will work......

hope this helps.....good luck.....
.......jade
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restore1867



Joined: 13 Aug 2008
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 11:02 pm    Post subject: Recommendation please Reply with quote

Would you all recommend running the bronze the height of the window or just the size of the sash? I saw where someone recommended attaching to the sash itself as opposed to the channel, any thoughts?
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jade



Joined: 11 Feb 2005
Posts: 786
Location: Hawley MA

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

restore....welcome to you too!

personally, i attached the bronze weather stripping to the sash itself...this method keeps the strip out of site...just measure the strip a 1/16" or so shorter than the sash and split the difference at the top and bottom and nail...to revise my earlier suggestions, i have found that it really isn't necessary to predrill the holes...i just use my fingers to hold the nail steady and give it a tap with the hammer...you can use needle nose pliers to hold the nail if that's more comfortable for you......some people use a staple gun to install bronze/copper staples.....

one of the reasons i do not attach the weather strip to the jamb is that method requires removing the strip to access the weight pocket for future repairs.....

good luck......
....jade
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kirkwood



Joined: 04 Apr 2007
Posts: 78
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

another vote for attachting the bronze to the sash, although its just one of many "correct" techniques. A lot depends on the situation.
I go with the pliers as it's hard to steady those small nails with my big sausage fingers.

dieter
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chopsieze



Joined: 08 Sep 2009
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, I was wondering with you guys who put the stripping on the sash if it makes it difficult to get the weight rope in there and if it will mark up the jam with the window being opened and closed repeatedly?

Thanks!
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kirkwood



Joined: 04 Apr 2007
Posts: 78
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't have any problems getting the ropes in. I put those in first then nail the bronze on.
There is slight scuffing of the jamb, but if it's not painted it's not real noticeable. Also a light coat of parafin wax on the jamb may help with the scuffing.

hope that helps.

dieter
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jade



Joined: 11 Feb 2005
Posts: 786
Location: Hawley MA

PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i nail the spring bronze starting at the bottom of the stile...i nail a few inches below the bore/knot hole then finish up nailing once the rope/chain is in place......
...jade
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Andy in NH



Joined: 01 Mar 2006
Posts: 92
Location: Lyndeborough, NH

PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm a weatherstrip-on-the-jamb type myself but I always put a slight bend diagonally in the end to prevent anything catching. Use sheet metal pliers (wide and flat) or in a pinch the wide vise grips you use to pull out the parting beads. Learned this tip from Dave (can't remember his last name) - a fellow restorer in Sacramento.
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rncx



Joined: 21 Jun 2008
Posts: 660
Location: Little Rock, AR

PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 2:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i put it on the frame as well, simply because it looks nicer ;).
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jade



Joined: 11 Feb 2005
Posts: 786
Location: Hawley MA

PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 6:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'm not averse to applying weather strip to the jamb and when i do, like andy, i round or bend over the ends to avoid snagation......

rncx--the frame of the window (jamb) or the frame of the sash?
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johnleeke
Site Admin


Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Posts: 2972
Location: Portland, Maine, USA

PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a video replay of a live video conference showing the installation of brass weatherstripping along the edge of the sash, including the sash cord detail, bending ends to avoid snagation, and a method to make the weather stripping twice as effective:

http://flash.kmi.open.ac.uk:8080/fm/memo.php?pwd=da2f55-5125&jt=00:46:30.33

_________________
John

by hammer and hand great works do stand
by pen and thought best words are wrought
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rncx



Joined: 21 Jun 2008
Posts: 660
Location: Little Rock, AR

PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jade wrote:
i'm not averse to applying weather strip to the jamb and when i do, like andy, i round or bend over the ends to avoid snagation......

rncx--the frame of the window (jamb) or the frame of the sash?


on the window frame, not the sash.
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kirkwood



Joined: 04 Apr 2007
Posts: 78
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yep bend the ends to curb snagation. Good advice for sash or jamb mount I'd guess.

Also that vid that John put up is how I learned. It's great.
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nbogosian



Joined: 09 Mar 2014
Posts: 14
Location: texas

PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 4:36 pm    Post subject: spring bronze video Reply with quote

Hello John - do you still have the video accessible online of attaching the spring bronze weatherstripping to the sash? The link I click on here says the page is not found. I'm really interested in the idea of attaching to the sash.

Also, is the spring bronze recommended for the bottom rail at the sill?

and is weatherstripping necessary at the two meeting rails? The sash I am working on do not provide any way to have sash locks at the meeting rail - i would literally have to cut into a moulding profile there. We are planning to keep them locked as they have been for many years - eye and hook latches on both sides. because of there not being a place for a sash lock at the meeting rails, the interior stops are the only thing keeping the meeting rails relatively tight.

thanks,
Nicholas
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