Meeting rail of upper sash sags
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gudulkaman



Joined: 13 Feb 2010
Posts: 16

PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 1:42 am    Post subject: Meeting rail of upper sash sags Reply with quote

During an initial call to view possible new work, I discovered that the meeting rail of an upper sash has a swale. It drops about 3/8" at the center. I wanted to ask for suggestions of approaching this issue.

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johnleeke
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Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Posts: 2962
Location: Portland, Maine, USA

PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dennis, here are three ways to deal with a bowed meeting rail.

1. If all the joints are in good condition and there are vertical muntin bars, then the rail can be clamped up in position and the joints re-pinned or re-pegged.

2. If some of the joints are a little decayed the rail can be clamped and the joints glued up and locked up with wood-epoxy repair methods.
The Save America's Windows book shows a step-by-step method for this on page 55:
http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw/reports/reports.htm#Windows

3. If there is also deterioration along the rail, it can be replaced with a new one.

This photo series shows a traditional meeting rail replacement:

http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw/workshop/windows.html

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Don Wagstaff



Joined: 09 Sep 2010
Posts: 100

PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello,

At any rate save the good wood sections of any parts that are replaced because that wood is truly irreplaceable and can often be used, if for nothing else, for making those new pegs. We don't glue there, right?

Greetings,

Don Wagstaff
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SashGuy



Joined: 10 Sep 2010
Posts: 152
Location: Houston

PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dennis, I run into this quite often in Houston due to the fact that the vast majority of the windows are single light, the humidity and homeowners who have caulked their windows shut and leave the latches unlatched. Remove the glazing from the meeting rail. With the upper sash in place, jack the upper meeting rail into alignment and set a brace up from the sill. Run a bead of glue on the inside where the glass contacts the meeting rail. Latch the window (which will keep it from twisting), but leave the brace in place. Allow the glue to set up for several days. At this point, the glass becomes structure and will hold the meeting rail level.

My first attempt at this was five years ago on an 1895 window that was 4' wide x 3' tall. I check it on occasion and so far, so good. George
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gudulkaman



Joined: 13 Feb 2010
Posts: 16

PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the very quick replies!

John : The sash is single light ~ no muntin bars.

SashGuy : what kind of glue do you recommend? Does this make it
difficult to remove the glass in some future year?

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SashGuy



Joined: 10 Sep 2010
Posts: 152
Location: Houston

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Titebond III, Don't glue the glass in, just a small bead where the top pf the rail meets the glass. Several passes with a razor will release it. Typically, I tape the latch and inform the customers not to unlatch the window for a month. This gives the glue and glazing time to set up plus time for some of the tension to relax in the rail.
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gudulkaman



Joined: 13 Feb 2010
Posts: 16

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to confirm where you apply the glue, SashGuy ~ I am picturing the glue on the bottom edge of the glass. Not the part that would rest on the rabbit? What if the glass is cut so that the bottom edge is slightly away from the edge of the rail?
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