Photos of restored jambs/channels/stops?
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circuspeanut



Joined: 30 Jun 2011
Posts: 16
Location: Portland, ME

PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 8:58 am    Post subject: Photos of restored jambs/channels/stops? Reply with quote

hi folks,

I'm wondering if anyone has any photos of fully restored, finished window jambs/ sash channels to share. I got my sash in and working, to make sure my project would succeed, but now some serious scraping awaits. The jambs/stops got terribly beat up in the vinyl replacement process, so I have a lot of smoothing and sanding to do.

It's funny, but I'm having a hard time finding good color photos of what they're supposed to look like when they're completed! Alas, I grew up without wooden windows and only have a vague notion of what they ideally look like. Namely: what parts stay untouched wood, what happens to the parting bead if the interior is stained and finished instead of painted, etc. My interior is shellacked old growth pine and fir, the sash exterior are a dark coppery red, the exterior trim is dark green.

Thanks in advance!
Ellen

Here's a shot of what they look like now, check out the lovely lead-licious mint green trim color from 1921 in the outer channels:



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Hannah



Joined: 20 May 2011
Posts: 74
Location: Kansas City

PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Basically, you don't want to paint any surface that the moving sashes rub against. So you'd only be painting the interior face of the interior trim (stop), the two exterior faces of the blind stop, and the outermost edge of the parting strip, where the sashes don't rub.

I have heard that traditionally, you can make a wash out of diluted oil paint or primer and use that on the exterior (top) sash track to help protect it from weather, particularly if you have colored exterior trim. This helps protect the exposed track and also helps the track blend in to the color scheme when viewed from outdoors (so in your case, the dark green color). But the 3 surfaces that the lower sash slides against should definitely be naked.

I have heard that lots of people like to rub a little beeswax into the bare wood jamb surfaces to protect the wood and lubricate the sash tracks.

Below is the jamb of my first finished window. The photo is actually of the spring-cable balance that installs into the jamb--just ignore that part and look at the wood. I have not yet painted the one side of the parting bead, but you get the overall picture. I didn't do a wash on the exterior track because I have good storms.

Hope this helps!


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rncx



Joined: 21 Jun 2008
Posts: 660
Location: Little Rock, AR

PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2011 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what i do...

pull the strips, sand them down and just oil them, put them back as they should be.

on the frame part of the channel, paint them a dark brown, and put your weather stripping over it so that the bottom of the channel is entirely hidden.

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circuspeanut



Joined: 30 Jun 2011
Posts: 16
Location: Portland, ME

PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2011 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you, Hannah -- that's helpful. What is the dark brown color on the upper/outer sash channel - is that a paint wash, or is the wood there also nekkid and just naturally that dark?

I have a great big chunk of paraffin wax for lubing up the channels, once I've figured out how best to finish (or not finish) them off.

rncx, by "strips", do you mean the parting beads? On the frame I wasn't going to weatherstrip at all - my sash are slightly too narrow for the frame, so I'm planning on routing the sash sides and inserting the wool brush/fin weatherstripping there.
I put spring bronze in a test window frame, and it's not thick enough to take up the gap. So I've taken it out and will use that on the tops and bottoms of the sash, where I've got a tighter fit.
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Hannah



Joined: 20 May 2011
Posts: 74
Location: Kansas City

PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That side of the jamb is just naturally that dark, although it's strange, seeing as the whole thing's just one piece of wood with the parting strip set into a dado in the middle. Chalk it up to weathering, I guess. That part of the jamb was never really exposed before, as the top (outer) sash was painted shut.
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rncx



Joined: 21 Jun 2008
Posts: 660
Location: Little Rock, AR

PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

circuspeanut wrote:
Thank you, Hannah -- that's helpful. What is the dark brown color on the upper/outer sash channel - is that a paint wash, or is the wood there also nekkid and just naturally that dark?

I have a great big chunk of paraffin wax for lubing up the channels, once I've figured out how best to finish (or not finish) them off.

rncx, by "strips", do you mean the parting beads? On the frame I wasn't going to weatherstrip at all - my sash are slightly too narrow for the frame, so I'm planning on routing the sash sides and inserting the wool brush/fin weatherstripping there.
I put spring bronze in a test window frame, and it's not thick enough to take up the gap. So I've taken it out and will use that on the tops and bottoms of the sash, where I've got a tighter fit.


yeah, the parting beads.

have you tried the flat type weather strip? the v type needs some room, but the flat type is pretty forgiving of tight fits.

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circuspeanut



Joined: 30 Jun 2011
Posts: 16
Location: Portland, ME

PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a nice roll of the copper colored flat spring strip from Killian, but unfortunately I ordered it in a haze of restoration anticipation, and it's not nearly thick enough to make up the side gaps. So I'll use it on top and maybe bottom of the sash.

Yes, I'd like to try the V-bronze, but it's not cheap -- while I save up for that, I've got lots of the old-style felt stripping -- I may try that on the sides of the sash to make them more snug for now.

Anyone have a tip on how to attach the felt? Nailed or stainless-steel-stapled? Affixed down the center or on the sides? Can it go right over the sash cord?
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mattswabb



Joined: 01 Nov 2010
Posts: 145
Location: Elyria, Ohio

PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use the spring bronze and then after nailing it on I score it where the slight bend is. This flares it out to fill the gap. I score it as needed, sometimes just a little and sometimes alot depending on the gap.

This is what I've been using. I can get 1.5 windows out of a roll.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1286178

You can get it a little cheaper on ebay.

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johnleeke
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Joined: 20 Aug 2004
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Location: Portland, Maine, USA

PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattswabb wrote:
after nailing it on I score it where the slight bend is. This flares it out to fill the gap.


The video in this message shows scoring rolled spring bronze to increase the lift:

http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1444

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mattswabb



Joined: 01 Nov 2010
Posts: 145
Location: Elyria, Ohio

PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The spring bronze is 15.99 on Ace Hardware site and I think I've been getting it for 14.99 at the store.

On eBay from this seller it is 9.99 + 5.15 shipping

http://stores.ebay.com/keyco-Hardware-Direct?_trksid=p4340.l2563

actual page: http://www.ebay.com/itm/230553534182?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#shId

If you buy in bulk it's tax free and the shipping is reduced. So 10 from this seller would be 99.99 + 11.03 shipping instead of $150+ in the store.

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johnleeke
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Joined: 20 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Ace brand rolled spring bronze weatherstripping is made of a thinner gauge metal than the Pemko, and some other brands. The thinner metal means it is more difficult to install due to kinking, and may not be as durable as thicker metal.

Randy-Serley, in Texas, has rolled spring bronze in the thicker gauge (.009") for about $58.00 per 100' roll, plus shipping.

An advantage in buying in 100' rolls is that you have less waste than with the 17' rolls.

For links to these and other suppliers of weatherstripping see the main weatherstripping discussion:
http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1444

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