Parting Bead fitment
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buckyswider



Joined: 30 Mar 2012
Posts: 21

PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 4:01 pm    Post subject: Parting Bead fitment Reply with quote

Hey all, year 3 of my window/exterior wood renovation project! In the interest of FINALLY getting this done, I will be outsourcing my sash restoration to Duffy Hoffman. I will be removing my sashes and delivering them to Mr. Hoffman a little at a time.

Of course, removing the sashes will result in breakage. I remove on sash pair on my "exploratory" window 18 months ago, and now am determining how to supply the replacement parting beads for when the sashes are done. The gap is inconsistent- it *seems* to be 3/8". It's hard to get a good measurement on the old bead- the one I have seems to be 25/64".

So I read in another thread that the parting beads should fit without much resistance. I cut a test 3/8" strip, and in order to get it in I'd have to force them in a bit. Is this the way to go, or should I plane them down even further to get a nice easy fit, and then nail where necessary? Also, what is the proper method for nailing these- pilot hole then straight thru the end, or toenail it in?

Due to the layers of paint, and the inconsistency of the window frame, I can't really tell my size yet- I think they're going to be 1", with 1/4" in the frame and 3/4" outside, but I'll wait to figure out the width first, the sneak up on the height a little at a time..

thanks!
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johnleeke
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Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Posts: 2925
Location: Portland, Maine, USA

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your notion of "sneaking up" on the right size is a good one. When the grooves are very consistent I usually cut my parting beads at the table saw with a planer blade that leaves a relatively smooth surface. If the grooves vary then I'll cut the parting bead stock with regular blade that leaves a rougher surface that I hand-plane to the needed thickness during sash installation.

I make them with a "snug fit," so the bead is placed with a light hammer tap, and is held in place by friction.

Here is the main discussion on parting beads:
http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1838

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Bruce



Joined: 15 Jan 2013
Posts: 17
Location: Fairfield, CT

PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I just replaced a few yesterday so I will tell you how I did it. I found some nice straight grained clear pine at the local big box. The 1 x material is actually perfect match for the depth of the parting bead. I then ripped it on my table saw with a 90T blade to thickness to match the original. Then I primed and painted the exterior exposed parts and tapped them in gently with a rubber mallet. Remember it's winter here (at least for me) so you don't want too snug of a fit as it will swell in the summer. On one window that was being fussy with the fit I slightly chamfered the inside edges with a block plane. There were no rounded corners on any of mine as the linked post mentioned. I just followed the originals. After I installed them I put two small finish nails on each side, pilot hole drilled of course through the bead and into the channel and gently tapped the nail in. I thought about tiny screws as an option to make further removal down the line a snap but said forget it since I already had the nails. All my windows had two small nails on each side and one on the top bead. YMMV.
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johnleeke
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Location: Portland, Maine, USA

PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce,

Sounds good. What is the size of your parting beads?

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by pen and thought best words are wrought
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Bruce



Joined: 15 Jan 2013
Posts: 17
Location: Fairfield, CT

PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi John,

3/4" x 1/2"

1/2" is the width going into the channel.

The key is to have an accurate table saw fence and blade setup to rip them perfectly square from a single 1 x 4 or 1 x 6. The "1" nominal will give me the 3/4" and I can cut many off one board. They needed little more than a very light sand to smooth the surface, which will depend on your blade of course. The reason I chose the big box for this was that I could really sort through the whole stock of wood to find a couple great pieces. I love the local lumber yard but they are there to supply contractors not some knucklehead that wants to surf through a pile of wood for one $10 board!

I would maybe consider different species of wood that didn't require treating and painting, but with clear pine, I felt I had to paint the exposed areas (which works since my windows are all painted white). No problems with movement whatsoever though. Every window I have done so far slides so cleanly and easily just from getting off all the old paint and doing nice clean applications of new coats, proper pulley restoration, etc....
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