Acrymax or Copper?
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johnleeke
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Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Posts: 2929
Location: Portland, Maine, USA

PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 3:53 pm    Post subject: Acrymax or Copper? Reply with quote

Peter writes:

My 130-year-old mansard-roofed house has five upstairs windows with hoods that
leak. The hoods have gable peaks in the middle and flat wings to either side.
They are apparently covered with single sheets of galvanized steel that wrap up
into wall flashing and down into drip edge. The steel is covered with mineral
rolled roofing. Unfortunately, the mineral rolled roofing is old and cracked,
the steel has corroded through, and water has penetrated the wooden
underlayment. As a result of that or workers walking on the wings they have
become concave, retaining water and ice, exacerbating the leaks.


I was thinking of opening up one of the hoods, rebuilding the wooden base, and
shaping a new copper roof from 24" wide rolls available locally. If I couldn't
rebuild it successfully, I would call a roofer who has done other metal roofing
work for us. A fellow old-house DIY owner says he's used Acrymax (TM)
elastomerics over corroded metal roofs instead of rebuilding the roof totally.
What approach would you recommend, DIY or for a professional?

Peter

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johnleeke
Site Admin


Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Posts: 2929
Location: Portland, Maine, USA

PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Acrymax requires fewer skills and less demanding skills. The Acrymax system can bridge 1/16 to 1/8" gaps, bigger than that and it needs a renewed substrate. If there is no decayed wood beneath it might be good. But, it is a coating so it will not solve the concave problem. Expected life of 2-3 coat acrymax, with no maintenance: 15-20 years.

Rebuilding the woodwork with copper flashing/roofing would be top end. Expected life of copper 40-80 years.

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