Penetrol equivalent for Consolidating Oil Resin?
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Eric



Joined: 05 Sep 2013
Posts: 4
Location: San Diego, CA

PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 4:00 pm    Post subject: Penetrol equivalent for Consolidating Oil Resin? Reply with quote

First, thank you to all who have contributed to this forum. The information has been truly valuable as I prepare to restore by 1928 sash windows.

I want to create the Consolidating Oil Resin used for the wood pretreatment prior to applying putty to the sashes and I am unable to obtain penetrol or alkyd varnish. Darn California regulations!

John wrote there might be a substitute (e.g. California Storm Stain Penetrating Wood Stabilizer) and I wanted to see if anyone has used this or another substitute for penetrol. Or am I stuck with linseed oil and will have to risk the fungus and mold?

Thanks in advance!
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Consider using the traditional recipe of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. Then add something to limit mildew.

The only "real" liseed oil I know of is Allback's Boiled Linseed Oil. You could add Allback's Zinc White as a mildewcide. See this discussion for a source of "real" turps:
http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2579

If you're on a limited budget and don't mind "fake" American products you could use any boiled linseed oil, any turpentine and add a mildewcide, such as Rust-Oleum Zinsser ADD-2 PREVENT MILDEW Mildewcide Additive.

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Eric



Joined: 05 Sep 2013
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Location: San Diego, CA

PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks John!

Is the ratio of linseed oil to turpentine 1:1?
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, 1 to 1 will work.
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Eric



Joined: 05 Sep 2013
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Location: San Diego, CA

PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had the ADD-2 Mildewcide from Zinsser (Rustoleum) in a 1:1 solution of Linseed Oil and Turpentine for the past four days at a ratio of mildewcide to solution per the instructions on the package. The mildewcide is not dissolving into the solution and it looks like a Christmas snow globe. I tried heating it up in hot water and it didn't help dissolving the mildewcide.

I also made two additional batches: 1) added the mildewcide to 100% linseed oil and 2) added the mildewcide to 100% turpentine for four days and it again won't dissolve in either batch.

I contacted the manufacture. They said it should dissolve in linseed oil and turpentine, and they can't figure out why it would not dissolve in any of the solutions I made. They checked to see if it was old, but it is only a year old.

They recommended using mineral spirits instead of turpentine. So I'm wondering, are mineral spirits a good substitute for turpentine when making the Consolidating Oil Resin?

Also, any reason another brand of mildewcide might have a better chance dissolving?

Thanks!
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, it would be OK to substitute mineral spirits for turpentine.

See if the manufacturer of the mildewcide will send you some directly.

Test to see if you can get the mildewcide to mix with just mineral spirits, then mix in your oil.

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Eric



Joined: 05 Sep 2013
Posts: 4
Location: San Diego, CA

PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks John.

So, I've added the mildewcide to the mineral spirits without the linseed oil and it still won't dissolve. The only thing I can get it to dissolve into is water and although the packaging says "easily dissolves into water and oil based paints" it takes forever because the only way I can get it to dissolve into water is to smash each little clump.

I will call Zinsser/Rustoleum on Monday and am thinking of trying another brand.

On another note, is adding a mildewcide to the mixture that will be applied to windows in Southern California (i.e. dry non-humid weather that only gets 10 inches a rain a year) necessary? I'm wondering if I'm over killing it. :)

Thanks!
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johnleeke
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm suspecting that they have changed the formulation since the last time I've used it.

I would say that is an arid environment and that if you do not have mildew problems on painted surfaces, that you could probably skip the mildewcide.

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